JP Ryan's Women Manteau-de-Lit or Bedgown Pattern

JP Ryan's Women Manteau-de-Lit or Bedgown Pattern

The Manteau-de-lit or Bed-gown is a T-shaped unfitted jacket that may be lined or unlined, with a shawl collar that continues into robings.  It is knee-length, has seven-eighth length sleeves and underarm gussets. The bed-gown may be held closed with straight pins or an apron, for which diagrams and directions are included.  Very easy to construct, the bedgown is reversible when lined.  Available in sizes S (6-8) to XXL (22-24), one size per pattern.

Pattern recommended by Les Amis du Fort de Chartres Interpretive Program for authentic French Habitant reenactment.

From head to toe: Caps were essential to the 18th-century French woman: they protected the hair beneath them during daily work, gave women freedom from having to dress their hair in elaborate styles, and could be fancied up with ribbon as a fashion statement. A chemise (below-the-knee shift) and stockings tied with garters were the base layer of every outfit. Stays (boned garments mentioned in inventories) would have provided bust support. Pockets were tied around the waist for storing personal items beneath several petticoats, and over this the upper garment went on last — either a bedgown, a fitted jacket, or a full-length gown. A fichu (neck handkerchief) prevented sun exposure on the neck and chest, and an apron helped protect the clothes from dirt and stains. For shade, a straw or felt hat helped keep women cool. Footwear included wooden sabots, slip-on mules, and leather shoes with buckles. Mitts of cotton, wool or silk could be worn in all weather since the forearm and hand were left exposed by sleeves that stopped just below the elbow. Short and long cloaks with and without hoods added warmth. 
Likely fibers:  Shifts, fichus, and caps were commonly made of linen as fine as a woman could afford, but also could be made of cotton. Colorful woven stripes and printed indienne cotton (a floral pattern particular to the 18th century) appear in inventories where gowns are mentioned, while hard-wearing linen and wool were also used for petticoats, bedgowns, jackets, French aprons often had an added bib, and could be made of plain white linen or cotton, as well as woven stripes, checks, and indienne cotton.